Norway 1 - Rallersvegen, Bergen, Trondheim
Welcome to norway, we’re not in the european union anymore and the border controls were dropped again – who needs border control when you got secret spy agent elks lurking in the forrests watching you 🫎🕵️👀😁.
What's the plan – go north, we know that already. What’s the real plan - details please: Next stop will be Moss, that’s about 100km south of Oslo. Made the decision not to go there even if it must be an amazing city. I’ll leave that open as travel destination for another time. For now nature and small villages is what i'm craving for.
From Moss I took the ferry over to Horten. Heard that close by is a old viking village at the sea. It’s on the route so let’s check it out.
It is a warm an beautiful day. Most of the days im just biking in a thin Merino T-Shirt. Enough to keep you warm. Feels comfortable for days and no smell – Thank you Sheep for sharing your coat.
We're drifting a bit...the viking village a museem and a nice park towards the sea with some old walls and geave hills on it. The museum looked fancy, built from wood in the style of a old viking longhouse mixed with a boats corpus. Sadly it was closes allready. Im still on pre vacation season and it shows when it comes to touristic attractions - loads are still closed or have shorter opening hours.
Rode through the park to the sea. The tought came to mind to just camp here – from the allowed perspective...pirate 🏴☠️
Talked to a couple who just were about to leave and we had a nice conversation about the trip, norway the region – very friendly and we clicked somehow. They were from a town roughly 30km away.
Thought it was funny and cute after talking for about ten minutes he looked at her and said: You want to take him home - don't you 😊.
With such a sentence you know you reached the cuteness factor of a little puppy 🐶😛 – it's all in the beard.
Would have been nice to stay with them for a night but 30km is just to far off and it was evening already. So where to go? Pirate camping in the park or family camping next to the park 🤔.
Welcome to family camping a small and nice campsite along the sea. Few more bikepacker stayed there too, so had good conversations. One group from germany and a woman with her son:
Jasmin a seasoned bikepacker doing country after country. This time Frankfurt -> cape north -> Alta. She is going to do the Rallersvegen too (Mountain road) on a 4,5m long bike – Her road bike and a follow me (her sons little bicycle attached as a kind of makeshift tandem) with 85 kg in luggage. They been to Marroco and Istanbul together. They are very happy and a great team 🙃 Was a pleasure getting to know them – who knows you might hear more of them.
I’m now at Borre on the Campsite, the plan is to go from here directly into the mountains towards Bergen and do the Rallervegen - supposed to be Norways most beautiful cycling route. The interesting part is that up there is still snow and parts of the Rallersvegen are not opened yet but supposed to be every day now. Let's try it, worst case is that we got to take the train for one or two stops 😁
The rallersvegen is the old support road, used for building and maintaining the train route from Olso to Bergen in the mountains.
There's another hidden reason to go to the mountains 😅 You will see soon.
The mountain landscape is so rewarding, before the Rallerswegen I have to climb to up to around 800 hm. It allready feels like beeing in the middle of the alps and the rallerswegen will go up much higher toup to 1430 hm.
Might not sound much but keep in mind that the treeline up here in the north is at 1000 hm, the height were trees stop growing.
Climbing the mountains shows that I had no rest day since sweden. It gets harder and harder, even hills that should be okay. So time for a break before entering the Rallersvegen in Haugastol.
What could be better for restdays than a place that is Geilo – Yes there’s a outdoor destination named Geilo! You see now why I had to go there, don't you?! 😛
It is located in a valley up in the mountains: ski resorts for the winter and mountainbiking and hiking during the summer. So went to the next campsite and stayed there for two days. Rest, sleep, eat, wash, stretch and give my body some time to adjust to what im asking from him.
Geilo, isn't it 😁 - Well how the locals speak it it is not as funny as it is for me. For them it is more of a mix between Jailo and Heilo. Guess there is a good reason why there was no city sign to find – that must have "vanished" a few times before and now decorates somebodies home.
On to Haugastøl further up the hill to 1000hm, it is the start of the Rallersvegen. From there we leave the asphalt road and continue on gravel roads. Soon you are allmost alone - a few huts here and there at first and then mountains rivers rocks and breathtaking nature to enjoy. The weather is perfect: sunny, no rain, warm but not too warm. In the mountains there is still snow, not much further up from where I am. Lakes still have plates of floating ice in them.
To expirience such nature you would have to go way higher up down in the south.
Drove up to Finse, the next part of the Rallervegen is still closed so was checking out when the next train is leaving to Mydalen - from there im able to continue. One and a half hours to spend. A soup would be nice so I checked out the Hotel / Restaurant there.
Modern with glass doors towards the terasse with view ovwr the moubtain lake. Some things felt off about it, loads of movie photographs and posters on the walls, the counter decorated with star wars figures and pictures. Turns out I'm on the planet of Hoff - The ice planet where Luke crashed his glider into the snow. Starwars - The enpire strikes back was shot here up in Finse – a lucky find for the space nerd in me 👩🚀🚀.
Went to the waiting station after. A heated room with a ticket counter (closed), big table, book sharing and a old woman who was happy to speak a few sentences german when she found out where im from. She lived in Hamburg for quite a while and went back to Norway where she grew up.
The trainride was short but beautiful - in an train with old wagons where the windows did not seal it completely and every time going through a tunnel pushed it open. Finse felt like traveling back in time, the train added to it.
After lifting the bike out of the wagon again you take in the station of Mydal. Sourounded by mountains shooting up a few hundret meters. The station is at about 800hm, coming from 1200hm.
The track further on the rallersvegen started at the end of the platform and went over a wooden pathway at the side of the mountain until a steep double track road with big stones of gravel made one switchback after another down into the valley. On the side a waterfall, dense vegetation and an amazing sight. Took some caution to drive down, loosening th breaks fully was not an option - next switchback. Just keep them rolling and all be okay.
The first campspot at a nose in the mountain was already taken by some backpackers. So I was looking for a place to pitch the tent in the valley. What a place, feels like out of a Lord of the rings movie; Waterfalls - four of them, the mountains, a mountain river and pasture with sone decorative looking boulder sticking out of the ground. Good place to pitch the tent – good night 🥱😴.
The ferry from Flåm needs to ne booked two days in advance, so I did while taking the rest day at Geilo. That gives me a day to stay in Flåm - to it leads a 26 km downhill road through a beautiful valley opening up to an astaunding Fjord. The train from Finse passes me on that way. By the looks of it an older one painted in dark green with yellow brown lettering – looks nice and people pressing their noses on the glass and drooling from all the natures beauty they have to endure.
I stay at a hostel & campsite in Flåm, feets up, Sordalsland chips in and writing the blog post about sweden. Usually writing is like 70% of the work, selecting and finding the matching photos takes another 30% – so with love we make it to 111% effort 😆.
Which movie did I snatch that from – maximum effort!!!
There was a rockslide that weekend and the main road is closed off. Many people with caravan, camper.. are trapped in Flåm for a few days or need to take a ride on the ferry.
Locals told me the rock coming down destroying the road has the size of a house. They are quite worried about such things happening as it is enough to create quite a wave too.
Five hours on the ferry to bergen. How to survive this without using up all storage space for photos and videos. The speed ferry with a hull like a catamaran and space for a few hundret people just flies over the water. Hard to make out how fast it is but it is fast and the driving wind it creates is enough to lean into with your body weight – if you got enough surface for it 😁🪁.
I enjoy the ride so much - my hightlight of it was as closer it got to Bergen it meanders through the Fjords and a seascape of loads of small Islands. I packed myself in warm clothes and an air tight jacket and just sepnd as much time on the front of the boat. There was a small corridor connecting both sides of the ship where you could go and lean on the wall and enjoy the view, while having gisht and fish blown into your face – I feel alive!
Standing in front of there two 17 year olds wanted to talk, they saw me entering the ferry on the bike. Otto and Magnus are on a camping trip with a group of about 15 people. A camp like trip where they go to hike, sailing, exploring and enjoying the outdoors. The two are smart, very interested about europe, it’s nature, people and fun to talk to – Pleasure getting to know you both – Keep on exploring 🤠.
The ferry just entered bergen, the port area is nice with the scandinavian wooden houses and loads of boats, ships - from industrial to sailing ones - cannot show you any picture of it. Only one from the next day. The ferry ride swallowed all of my cellphones battery.
Looked for a hotel to stay in Bergen and booked it while being on the ferry. Found one - Bergen historic hotel with fair prices for the night and close to the center. They are absolutely helpful, forthcoming and you will have a great stay there. It is an old hotel with an warm atmosphere: rugs, pictures wooden carpentry and warm light along tiny stairways that lead up to cosy rooms. The breakfast was fantastic and when asking for a suggestion where to go to have supper they had something magical in store – my tastebuds still look back to it.
You can go to the Taco place or the Pizzeria the receptionist said with a wink to prefer the later.
You get into a hip place, quite small rough walls, a few tables and a bar in the back. Looking at the menu they had a Pizza with Sesam, Mushrooms and spring onions and a salad that sounded nice. Green with a local cheese on it. When the pizza was served the surface looked alive, something very thin moving with the rising heat.
Shavings of dried Tuna, the taste very delicate with a crust that that cracks when ripping, cracks when taking a bite and is still soft inside with a fine smell of wheat 🙃
I leave Bergen with destination Bødo, the next big stop. It is raining or a constant mist and the lowest hanging clouds on the trip so far with a nice scenery - seems to be a constant in norway - with all the rain i'm never cold. That makes me happy and the rain is enjoyable – Still sun is prefered ☀️.
Got to a small settlement and a older woman was about to pass me in her car. I waved her and signaled that I need to ask her a question as i saw a sign which said hytter - maybe she knows if its a good place to stay for the night. She didn't know anything about a shelter or hytter but that did not matter as she quickly decided to take me home with her so I can stake my tent in her garden.
We had a nice chat and even offered to make me food - hate when this happens. Not the fakt that she os offering food but that it is bad timing – I just ate 🙈
The next day started a bit cloudy, no rain, later sunny. 25 km to the next ferry from Leirvag to Slorvag. A short ride with the ferry and another slight change in scenery - again hilly, streets getting smaller, nature got a bit more rough, population density got lower and loads of wild flowers – and the fjords, like driving from one postcard to the other. Came flying down a steep hill into a small settlement of 3-4 houses. One of them a supermarket – more like a tante emma store, small everything in the sortiment one would need liking around from food to clothes to tools or wool. Outside a table with a coffee pot, some cups and cookies: Seemed so forreign to me and i asked them about it why they do it and for whom it is - their explanation was simple: people liked to sit out there so we thought we put some coffee and cookies.
Checked the next ferrys schedule. It leaves every three hours - got about two hours riding to get there, i can make it - it will be a bit tight bit managable. We t at a decent pace, before the ferry one hill after another. Still all good feeling well and I can keep the pace - concentrate on breathing out, air gets in. It will be tight, less than 10 minutes until the ferry leaves, up the pace a bit more. Breath out – fresh air in and a UFO, a bug or fly or whatever insect it was. I did spit it out instantly, at least I thought so and stopped – instantly my gag reflex sets in. My body wants to get rid of whatever got in... Might have been just five minutes of my body cramping and puking the nothingness out. I stand there a bit drooling still with tears in my eyes - I still might make it. Grab the waterbottle, wash my mouth, wash my face and back to pace. Took the last hill and then it's all downhill around the corner. I fly down ther with good speed and get in the harbor. I just see the ferry closing its door and making its first ten meters away from the dock. To late is just to late – three hours to relax.
Met Rainer, the pensioned cop from Hamburg. We talked and he made us some tea. A seasoned bikepacker and well organized in the community. He is one of the people spearheading Reiserad Forum: reiserad-forum.de
A funny and queer dude with the heart on the right spot 🙂
The next 1000 km will be fjordhopping at the west coast. From finger to finger, with a lot of elevation, as they reach out into the ocean like a hand – One with way more then ten fingers.
The next ferry coming up. An old sailors town where the best days seem to lie in the past. Shops, cafes one pretty and touristy, now quite some of them closed down. Just got into the harbor area to look arount from where the next ferry leaves and I was spottet from a far: A smiling face walked towards me and shouted: Hey Stephan! in a welcoming way. It was Rainer again and he allready made some new friends – a couple from Belgium. They all been settled in on the speed ferry. A small one, maybe 20 meter in length and space for about two cars, or a couple of bikepackers, ready to enjoy the sunny day at sea.
We all been sitting around, taking pictures and having a chat on deck as the speed ferry – which has its name rightfuly flies through the waves. That thing is a motor with a bit of ship attached. Was fun to go fast and feel the waves crushing against it's keel and throw some of the sprayed into the air. We decided to go and have drinks together in Maloya, our destination a small but nice harbour town.
The next campsite and next restday is just across the maloyasund bridge. It curves up into the air, makes a half circle a and exits towards a mountain on the next island. It is tall enough so that even big ships can pass under it. A beautiful campsite at a small cliff with loads of littlw wooden huts and walkways accross rocks down to the sea with space to place tents or park your camper. Theres a kitchn, a socialarea with a living room, washing machines and it is run by exceptionally friendly people. Stayed ther for two nights - time to wash my clothes and make a trip without luggage to thw nwxt supermarket and uae that kitchen – yummy vegan food 😋
Couliflower with chickpeas, coconut milk and full grain pasta.
The bikepacking community soon feels like a litte family. Maybe it is because got something in common to talk about and when your on the road the chance that you got a story to tell is high. The people you meet are usually happy to have somebody to talk to as they sit on their bike all day alone - just having conversations with themselves. Say Hi! when you pass by, short talks when you meet at shops and usually the ferries up here are a great meeting point. Even if your a bit faster or you get passed a lot waiting for even 10-30 minutes evens out quite a bit of speed difference. On occation you'll be waiting for 2-3 hours if the route is not as frequented 🙃
On towards Bodø along the west coast passing the Hurtigurten, elevation is high. All of it accumulating from smaller hills as the road rests on the back of the fjords rocky shoreline. One kilometer in elevation on 100km is the usual. So taking a rest at Jocker - a supermarket chain - Get a rest and free coffee. As stated before, biker flock together, so I met Isabel and Pablo - she was from Insbruck and he from Spain. When I met them some local kids swarm around them - they are in high spirits enjoying making fun with the two. They might have found the source of free coffee too but as it turns out they get giftet so many candy and sweets fron the store that this might be the reason - two little suggar Zombies.
Isabel and Pablo stopped a few kilometer further, saw them when passing by when they staked their tent. I wanted to go on another 20km to a sightseeing plattform on a mountain that was suggested to me by a local hotel owner.
He was right, the spot was excellent with a view, see for yourself. Toilet with fresh water included – the pirate campers dream campground and so worth the steep road to get there🏴☠️
Another day of riding passed by and it took a while to find a good spot away from people, so camping on a strip of grass behind a football field with a great view was the "ugly" alternative – poor me 🤣
You wake up your stomach tells you need to take a shit. One of the cases where to much infrastructure might be hindering...except the people around leave the toilet of the little kiosk open so your greeted with a clean toilet and fresh water - perfect start into the day 💩.
If my phone is halfway accurate then I burned 2700 additional calories the last day - 80km with 1200m elevation. Tracking says i've traveled a little over 2700 km in distance so far.
Alesund is the next big city, time and chance to replace my rain gear at a workwear store and send a package back home. The rain trowsers has a rip all over my crotch and the rain jacket was good but just not made for biking as it has no cxhance to adjust the hood and rain gets in easy. Threw it in with a selection of candy and some postcards and sent them home to my parents.
Tennford - The first storm an heavy rain, did seek shelter at side of a church. The church was blocking the storm from the sea and most of the rain. Trees and a staircase covered the sides. The new reinpacket is great and was allready worth it 🌧️🙂.
"Auf wiedersehen" is the way to say when departing here. Just met Pablo and Isabella again at a waiting station at the ferry over to Dryna, where the stayed for the night. Pablos chain is broken, so for him it was a detour to the next city to get his chain fixed, Isabella continues alone. Had to go the long way along the coastline. People in Komoot suggested a local bakery - went there and it was worth it 😋
Was wondering about the sudden rise in local bikers around. Turned out there is a event in norway where they travel through the country in smaller stages. Every year by different means - bike, foot, boat and television is reporting about it – i might by on norwegian television. I’m the guy going the other way and making a face looking like a fish because that crowd of cyclists were not expected 🐟👀.
This nights stay – the premium bus station.
Just made 3000km 🥳🚵♂️. I'm a little proud of myself 😌
Got surprised by sudden rainfall and storm – Another night, another bus station. His time had to be a bit creative to make it rainproof. Tarp on the ground sleeping at bus station, sides a bit up and the bike in front to block of some of the wind.
Cycling in the rain is surprisingly fun with decent gear and a beard that could house a three story birds nest 🕊.
Took the road inlands away from eurovelo 1 cycling route. With the idea to get up north faster and spare some elevation. The coastline is anszing but it takes tine and is hard sometimes - elevation, wind, rain...so it took me to the road E39 after a redirection where they are doing roadwork. The road takes me through amazing forrests and lakes in the mountains.
Getting attacked on the road...my first idiot...E39 uphill going 5-7 km/h max. A guy went past me with his car and trailer – very close, too close. I shouted and signaled that he done shit. He stopped a bit later and as I drove by tried to push me off the bike into the other lane. Glad I could keep my balance, else it would have been too close with a car passing by the other dorection on the other lane. Stopped a bit further, keeping the bike between me and him. Need to ket out some of what was coming up. Had to ask him if he knew what he was doing there. You should go faster and more to the right he said – was cycling on the line allready... Needed to see how it plays out if this gets into a fight or not, be prepared. What he doesn't knew is that the gopro camera was running and recording – and the license plates and him. I'll take an detour to the next police station and talk to them. Cannot and will not tolerate this. Im angry that someone made me angry – would have hated it if the angry bear with all that rage and fear would come out and roar. The one I try to keep calm so carefully. The bear would stirr up the waves quite a bit – we talked about it earlier. Its not about anger more about that if would ruin the balance the gates that hold back all these overwhelming feelings.
It rained, fine spray all over - after this and what happened a shower should do its magic. Found a campsite where they rent old norwegian style cabins. Let's take a shower and sleep.
Orkanger - politi station is closed. It is 16:30. The local non-emergency number they written down on their door to call - no answer. Let's go to Trondheim they must have habe a policeststion there thats open.
The road decends down to Trondheim along the Fjords. The road is flowy and easy to ride. It's fun 😃.
Reached Trondheim a bit late, around 21:30, had the politi station as my destination in Komoot. Of course it was closed and no theres nobody manning the station overnight. Looked for a hotel and found a decently priced one at the harbour. So police and bikeshop for some minor maintenance are on the schedule for the next day.
At the police station the next day: Outcome was...are you hurt - no, okay we can take a notice but i don’t think we will look into it, just not a priority, was what the policeman told me. I have GoPro footage of it and the number plates...yea we won't look into that...too nuch work.
Went to check out Trondheim a bit and met Bodo from Tuttlingen at a very nice bakery - he sat down next to me and we talked for one or two hours. Turns out they developed an NGO in Peru that farms and exports Peruvian coffee under the Gepa Label to Europe and helps with running sustainable farming communities in the mountains. While talking we were fighting off the most impertinent seagulls i came across so far, trying to steal the sandwitch out of your hand and doing air acrobatics close over peoples heads.
Trondheim is a university city with a population of about 212000 people.
30000 of them students with a high percentage of them studying at the technology university and about 10000 at the university hospital – wikipedia
Decided to split the blog articles at this point. It is big enough allready and you all don't want to wait for me to cross all of norway before the next post 🙃
...and you've been waiting long enough 😁 – There you go 📖🤗
Looking at the pictures I missed to tell you about quite some places. Maybe I'll find a way to mix them in as a seperate post – or you will see some of them in another way 😉.
You see so many things and pictures get a lot (at of writing about 5000 pictues accumulated + videos and a full go pro cartridge).
...stay tuned – ohh tunes, there was something 😁
enjoy 🎧🙉